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SAND, SEA & FIRE

Crystal-clear waters, elephants and temples in the Land of Smiles, Thailand


I take a flight to Bangkok, snoozing in a Drowsy eye mask packed in a Radley backpack, then fly to my favourite airport, Koh Samui. Fisherman’s Village, Bophut is a walking street at night and its weekly market is worth a visit. At Coco Tam’s we sit on bean bags to watch an incredible fire show wow the audience. Sea, boats and midnight sky act as a backdrop for flaming spirals as the music beats.


We hitch a colourful Songthaew shared taxi truck around the island. Pass songbirds in bamboo (not gilded) cages and Durian fruit – apparently they taste great if you can get past the smell! For good vibrations, visit Big Buddha Temple and climb the stairsto ring reverberating bells for good luck.


Lily pads flower amongst tropical foliage at Santiburi resort. Parasols surround a large swimming pool. Swim and enjoy a coconut water. Chill in hammocks swinging beneath palm trees on the white sandy beach. Golf buggies take you to your contemporary Thai suite. At Sala Thai restaurant, we devour duck wontons and delicious red curry lobster while listening to frogs, and a Thai melody plays on the string instrument ‘Kim’.


Mr Ung’s Jungle Safari Tour is a fantastic way to see the island’s temples. Retro jeeps stop at Wat Plai Laem, Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks, Guan Yu Shrine, Mummified Monk, and Na Muang Waterfall. An adventurous drive up the mountaintop for mesmerising views and a rooftop lunch for the best ever Thai curry! The Secret Garden has moss stone statues. We see a green whip snake and cobra, elephants, dragons, and reclining Buddha... statues. A highlight in the heat is a water fight with the other jeeps, which made this day trip so much fun!


Head to Amari in Chaweng to be closer to the action. Red parasols, blue sky, and white sand beckon invitingly. Mynah birds strut past, frangipani scatter the grass, their white and yellow flowers so perfect they don’t look real. We stay in a lovely pool-view room in the new Garden wing. From the balcony, I hear birds whistle, coots coo and grasshoppers tick. Butterflies dance as dragonflies bounce on the pool surface, and there’s happy hour at the pool bar.


A gecko darts up a tree as the fountain tinkles on the pool by the beach. Sun loungers wait expectantly, the triangles of parasols echoing the hill on the horizon. It’s humid as we relax on the warmth of sun-baked towels. The beach is tranquil, and we happily haggle with a hawker who makes us bespoke shell jewellery. Guests kayak or paddle board and the sea shimmers like mother-of-pearl as the sun sets.


You can’t beat getting your vitamin D from sunshine and I pack Innisfree Vitamin C Serum (it amplifies your sunscreen) and Rituals sun protection face cream.

Thai massages are amazing. After a ‘Serene’ mood massage at Amari’s Breeze Spa, I came out feeling exactly that!


Happiness is rice and noodles – we loved dining on the beach, tables set with white tablecloths under the stars. I recommend Thai red/green curry – ask for farang (foreigner) spicy rather than Thai spicy! Mango sticky rice is a speciality. Fire jugglers walk amongst enthralled diners, twirling flames around their heads to their delight/ terror. Golf buggies whizz guests around. The main road is busy, but Amari is an oasis of tranquillity with its beautifully planted gardens.


At night, the lights of the squid fishing boats glow green to lure plankton. Walk down the beach for a peaceful stroll until you reach the allure of the Elephant Beach Club. Music pumps and radiant sparks shower from the fire show. The Ark bar plays tunes – perfect for drinks and a dance. Walk down the main street for a more hectic, fun experience. Enjoy a Stacked Burger at OZO. Cabaret Paris Follies is entertaining with ‘ladyboys' vogueing and Green Mango Club is open very late.


Book excursions at the tour desk to the Elephant Spa or Sanctuary. Feeding elephants and washing them in a river was a special moment! Ang Thong National Marine Parkis worth a day boat trip to the archipelago in azure waters. Snorkel in crystal-clear waters at this tropical paradise.


To infinity pools and beyond... for five-star luxury retreats, escape to Melati, Cape Fahn Hotel or Banyan Tree.


A sign read ‘May the wind blow you back again’ on my last Samui visit and I’m so pleased it did. Thailand truly is The Land of Smiles."


Written by Crystal McClory


For more about Thailand on our website:

Read about Amari Koh Samui and Amari Staff Blog, 

Santiburi and Melati in Koh Samui

See Premier Holiday's Luxury Thai Escapes 

Five-star hotel on an island Cape Fahn.


To book contact Abbotts Travel 134 George Lane, South Woodford, E18 1BA on 020 8989 9445 or email info@abbottstravel.com


See Thailand travel editorial on Koh Samui on page 25 of the November issue of







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